#Cylinder numbers 6.0 psd cracked#
Thanks to more awareness of the problem in the aftermarket, different head stud installation techniques and lower final torque sequences are now being put to use, which has helped minimize the number of cracked block scenarios over the past several years.
#Cylinder numbers 6.0 psd full#
The only remedy is a new block and a full rebuild.
#Cylinder numbers 6.0 psd crack#
The problem area is also located right between two water jackets, which means once the crack extends into a water jacket the engine oil becomes contaminated with coolant. The area most prone to cracking is the section in the block between the head bolt bore and the lifter valley (nearest cylinder numbers three and five), where the casting is only 5 mm thick.
Primarily an issue in the aftermarket, once head studs have been installed and presumably over-torqued, a thin spot in the 6.4L’s crankcase can crack. Some enthusiasts theorize that the extreme drive pressure created by the factory-based compound turbo arrangement is the most detrimental to piston life. Due to excessive cylinder pressure, age, abuse and a lip design that retains heat, they’re prone to cracking in both near-stock and highly modified applications. However, the factory pistons leave much to be desired. Like the 6.0L, the 6.4L also makes use of a bed plate, so crankshaft-related issues are essentially unheard of. In fact, the connecting rods are much beefier than what you’ll find in the 6.0L and they’ve proven capable of handling more than 900rwhp. To be fair, the 6.4L’s rotating assembly is stout. We will note that as these engines age, it’s not uncommon for them to develop a minor oil leak where the bed plate mates to the block, but it’s more of a quirk than a problem. As for the crankshaft, it’s secured via a bedplate, so main cap walk is a non-issue (being that the mains are integrated into the cast-iron piece itself). The pistons and rods hold up very well as the miles rack up and they can even survive in trucks making 800rwhp. Outside of rare occasions, bottom end failures are few and far between. This is one category where the 6.0L shines. Shots have officially been fired! Let’s Compare the Hard Facts So which engine is better? We’ll lay out both power plant's wrap sheets and let you draw your own conclusion(s). While you may have heard the laundry list of items that plague the 6.0L, you might not know that a high-pressure fuel system failure or a cracked piston on a 6.4L can each run you upward of $6,000. Below, we’ll list the pros and cons of each, along with how they stack up against one another in terms of longevity, performance and cost. Still, for other, non-enthusiast types, rampant issues and expensive (and often extensive) repairs led to former 6.0L and 6.4L owners racing toward other brands, back to the trusty 7.3L or into the new 6.7L Power Stroke. On the other side of the fence, the 6.4L-for-life crowd was reeled in by the promise of easy horsepower (nearly 600rwhp with engine tuning), and they refuse to give up on the potent platform that brought common-rail injection and compound turbocharging to the Super Duty line. For the 6.0L faithful, an underdog mentality combined with a willingness to work on and learn from their engine seems to help them persevere. But while the 6.0L and 6.4L are arguably the most problematic diesel V8s to ever don the Power Stroke name, each engine still enjoys tens of thousands of fanatical followers. This time, the world’s most-hated diesel is up against the 6.4L-an engine that hasn’t exactly been known for being bulletproof in recent years.
6.0L face-off went viral on social media, we’ve decided to drag 6.0L loyalists back into the ring for another Power Stroke throw down.
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